René Lalique: Artist Biography
Biography of early 20th Century French glass and jewellery master
Biography of René Lalique, French artist, master glass designer and jeweler in the Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles of the early 20th Century.
René Jules Lalique (b.1860 – d.1945) is considered to be one of the world's greatest glass artists and jewellery designers of the Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods. In fact, he was one of the few artists who successfully made the transition from the mannered, self-consciously opulent and sinuous Art Nouveau (1880’s – 1900’s) aesthetic to the sweeping, modern and elegant functionality of Art Deco (1910 – 1940).
His superb work features naturalistic elements inspired by nature, Greek classical themes, and social pursuits of his time such as hunting.
Like many other Art Nouveau artists, Lalique employed the most modern manufacturing techniques and equipment of his time to mass-produce his work while retaining a hand-made look. His clear and frosted glass creations were popular during his lifetime and are still collected by museums as well as glass enthusiasts.
Early Years & Jewellery Career
Born on April 6, 1860 in the village of Aÿ in the Champagne region of France, Lalique’s family moved to Paris when he was two years-old.
Beginning at age of 12, Lalique studied drawing with Jean-Marie Lequien. Four years later, upon the death of his father, Lalique began apprenticing with Louis Aucoc, one of the best jewelers of Paris, while continuing his drawing classes at the Ecole des Arts Décoratifs de Paris. He later studied drawing at Sydenham College in London where he developed a unique naturalist style which was to influence his style as a jeweler.
Back in Paris, Lalique worked as a designer for a relative while freelancing on the side for jewelers such as Aucoc, Boucheron, Cartier, Destape, Gariod, Hamelin and Jacta. He also studied sculpture modeling and etching.
In 1885, Lalique began manufacturing his jewellery designs out of his own workshop. These employed non-conventional materials such as translucent enamel, semiprecious stones and ivory.
Success followed in 1893 when he won second prize in the Centrale des arts Décoratifs goldsmiths’ competition for his Chardon glasses and an honourable mention for his Pampas and Satyrs vase. The following year, Lalique exhibited at the Salon de la Société des Artistes Français in the sculpture section and began creating jewellery for Sarah Bernhardt. Four years later, he won the Grand Prix at the International Exhibition in Brussels and was made a Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur.
In 1902, Lalique was living, manufacturing and showing out of his mansion in Paris, which featured his designs on the balconies, entrance and hall. By 1908, he had begun creating fashion accessories such as handbags, scarves and belts as well as perfume bottles for François Coty.
These bottle designs, which evoked the enclosed fragrance, revolutionized the perfume industry and led to work for other leading perfumers such as Roger & Gallet, Houbigant, Molyneux, d’Orsay, Molinard and Worth.
Glass Creations
By 1912, Lalique had largely turned away from jewellery to focus on glass. During World War I, his Combs-la-Ville workshops manufactured laboratory glass for hospitals and pharmaceuticals. He opened another factory in Wingen-sur-Moder in 1921, and had created the first of his emblematic vases, bowls and figurines in frosted glass by 1926.
By 1932, Lalique had designed the Champs-Elysées Pigeons fountain, the main doors of Prince Asaka Yasuhiko’s Palace in Tokyo (now Teïen Museum), as well as St. Matthew’s Church on the island of Jersey in the UK.
He had also designed the interior of several French ocean liners, the Orient Express, radiator caps for Citroën and stained-glass windows for Saint Nicaise Church in Reims, La chapelle de la Vierge fidèle in Douvres la Délivrande as well as several boutiques including the Coty Building windows at 712, 5th Avenue in New York City.
Cristal Lalique
In 1939, Lalique’s factory in Wingen-sur-Moder was occupied by the German army. Lalique did not live to see his factory re-opened, dying on May 5, 1945 at the age of 85. He is buried in Le Père Lachaisse Cemetery in Paris.
Lalique’s son, Marc revived the family business under the name Cristal Lalique after World War II. The firm, currently run by grand-daughter Marie-Claude, produces new designs as well as favourites by René and Marc.
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